From Our Extension Office:
Apple trees that are not pruned for several years, will often produce so many branches that little energy is left for fruit production. Overgrown apple trees are also difficult to harvest and spray. Gardeners who have such a tree are often at a loss as to how to get it back in shape.
According to Ward Upman, Kansas State University Extension Associate, often the best recommendation for such a tree is to make one pruning cut at ground level and start over with a new tree. Trees may have sentimental value that will make revitalization worth the time and effort. Realize that this will be a multi-year process because no more than 30 percent of the tree should be removed in one year.
Here are some steps to follow. Remove all dead wood. This does not count toward the 30 percent. Remove suckers from the base of the tree. Choose approximately six of the best branches to keep as scaffold branches. Remove all others. Branches should be cut flush to the branch collar. The collar is the natural swelling that occurs where a branch connects to the trunk or to a larger branch. Removing the collar would leave a larger wound that would take additional time to heal. Do not paint wounds. Wounds heal more quickly if left open.
Candidates for removal include branches with narrow crotch angles, which are more likely to break in wind and ice storms, and those that cross branches you will save. This may be all that is possible the first year if the 30 percent threshold has been reached.
You should also thin the branches on each scaffold branch. Remove crowded branches to open up the tree to light and allow humidity to escape. Shorten each scaffold branch by cutting back to a side branch. When you are through, the tree should have enough wood removed so that a softball can be thrown through the tree.
Severe pruning often will cause an apple to tree to produce vigorous side shoots from the trunk called water sprouts. Main branches will also produce suckers that grow straight up. The suckers and water sprouts should be removed throughout the growing season so the center of the tree stays open. Learn more at the Backyard Fruit series of workshops on March 10th, 17th, and 24th. Call the Extension Office at 263-9226 for details.
Apple trees that are not pruned for several years, will often produce so many branches that little energy is left for fruit production. Overgrown apple trees are also difficult to harvest and spray. Gardeners who have such a tree are often at a loss as to how to get it back in shape.
According to Ward Upman, Kansas State University Extension Associate, often the best recommendation for such a tree is to make one pruning cut at ground level and start over with a new tree. Trees may have sentimental value that will make revitalization worth the time and effort. Realize that this will be a multi-year process because no more than 30 percent of the tree should be removed in one year.
Here are some steps to follow. Remove all dead wood. This does not count toward the 30 percent. Remove suckers from the base of the tree. Choose approximately six of the best branches to keep as scaffold branches. Remove all others. Branches should be cut flush to the branch collar. The collar is the natural swelling that occurs where a branch connects to the trunk or to a larger branch. Removing the collar would leave a larger wound that would take additional time to heal. Do not paint wounds. Wounds heal more quickly if left open.
Candidates for removal include branches with narrow crotch angles, which are more likely to break in wind and ice storms, and those that cross branches you will save. This may be all that is possible the first year if the 30 percent threshold has been reached.
You should also thin the branches on each scaffold branch. Remove crowded branches to open up the tree to light and allow humidity to escape. Shorten each scaffold branch by cutting back to a side branch. When you are through, the tree should have enough wood removed so that a softball can be thrown through the tree.
Severe pruning often will cause an apple to tree to produce vigorous side shoots from the trunk called water sprouts. Main branches will also produce suckers that grow straight up. The suckers and water sprouts should be removed throughout the growing season so the center of the tree stays open. Learn more at the Backyard Fruit series of workshops on March 10th, 17th, and 24th. Call the Extension Office at 263-9226 for details.
From Our Extension Office:
One of the most neglected tools for vegetable gardeners is a soil thermometer. Soil temperature is a much better measure of when to plant than air temperature or the calendar. Planting when soil is too cool can cause seeds to rot and transplants to sit there.
According to Ward Upman, Kansas State University Extension Associate, a number of vegetables can germinate and grow at cool temperatures. For example, peas will germinate and grow well at a soil temperature of 40 F. Though lettuce, parsnips, and spinach can sprout at a soil temperature of 35 F, they prefer at least 45 F for best germination and growth. Radishes also do well at a soil temperature of 45 F.
Warm-season crops such as tomatoes, sweet corn and beans prefer at least
55 F for germination (or transplanting), but others such as peppers, cucumbers, melons and sweet potatoes need it even warmer, about 60 F.
Taking soil temperature accurately is a bit of a science. First, use a metal soil thermometer, which is sold in many garden and hardware stores. Take temperature 2.5 inches deep at about 10 to 11 a.m. Daytime variations affect soil temperature, with lowest readings after dawn and warmest around mid-afternoon. The late-morning reading gives a good average temperature. Also be sure to get a consistent reading for four to five days in a row before planting, and make sure a cold snap is not predicted.
An excellent guide sheet on this subject is published by the Alabama Cooperative Extension System and is titled “Soil Temperature Conditions for Vegetable Seed Germination.” It can be found at http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1061/ANR-1061.pdf.
One of the most neglected tools for vegetable gardeners is a soil thermometer. Soil temperature is a much better measure of when to plant than air temperature or the calendar. Planting when soil is too cool can cause seeds to rot and transplants to sit there.
According to Ward Upman, Kansas State University Extension Associate, a number of vegetables can germinate and grow at cool temperatures. For example, peas will germinate and grow well at a soil temperature of 40 F. Though lettuce, parsnips, and spinach can sprout at a soil temperature of 35 F, they prefer at least 45 F for best germination and growth. Radishes also do well at a soil temperature of 45 F.
Warm-season crops such as tomatoes, sweet corn and beans prefer at least
55 F for germination (or transplanting), but others such as peppers, cucumbers, melons and sweet potatoes need it even warmer, about 60 F.
Taking soil temperature accurately is a bit of a science. First, use a metal soil thermometer, which is sold in many garden and hardware stores. Take temperature 2.5 inches deep at about 10 to 11 a.m. Daytime variations affect soil temperature, with lowest readings after dawn and warmest around mid-afternoon. The late-morning reading gives a good average temperature. Also be sure to get a consistent reading for four to five days in a row before planting, and make sure a cold snap is not predicted.
An excellent guide sheet on this subject is published by the Alabama Cooperative Extension System and is titled “Soil Temperature Conditions for Vegetable Seed Germination.” It can be found at http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-1061/ANR-1061.pdf.
20/02: COMING EVENTS AND WORKSHOPS:
COMING EVENTS AND WORKSHOPS:
Beginning Beekeeping - Thursdays, March 8, 15, 22, and 29 – 7:00 – 9:00 p.m. – 4 weekly sessions, plus site visit to a local Apiary on Saturday, March 24th. $35.00 per family at the Ag Heritage Center. Call the Extension Office at 263-9226 to register.
Indoor Seed Starting – Wednesday, February 29th 6:30 – 8:30 p.m. – Join Master Gardener Ray Eckhart to learn about starting seeds indoors. As part of the class, attendees will build and take home a frame to support a lighting system suitable for home use. Fee is $25.00 and includes the material for building the frame.
Dairy Heifer Management Workshop – Thursday, February 23rd 9:30 – 3:30 at the Franklin County Ag Heritage Center. For dairy producers and their employees, this work-shop explores all factors necessary to effectively manage a successful heifer program, including: heifer nutrition and management, health and vaccination programs, and reproduction and synchronization. Fee is $12.50 for Pennsylvania dairy producers and their dairy employees. To register online, visit: http://estore.psu.edu/dairyalliance or call the Penn State Extension Dairy Team at 888-373-7232 (toll-free). More information on the event may be found at extension.psu.edu/production-agriculture/dairy.
Franklin County Crops and Soils Day 2012 – Thursday, March 1, 9:30 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. at the Ag Heritage Center. Fee is $10.00 and includes lunch. Space is limited, so please register as soon as possible. If you have any questions or would like more information, please call Jennifer Bratthauar, Extension Educator, at (717) 263-9226, ext. 228.
Backyard Fruit Series – Saturdays, March 10, 17, and 24 9:00 a.m.-11:00 a.m. – 181 Franklin Farm Lane. Fees are $10.00 per class, or $25.00 for the series. March 10 – Grapes, March 17 – Tree Fruit (Apples, Peaches, etc.), March 24 – Small Fruit (strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, etc.) Call the Extension office at 263-9226 to register.
Beginning Beekeeping - Thursdays, March 8, 15, 22, and 29 – 7:00 – 9:00 p.m. – 4 weekly sessions, plus site visit to a local Apiary on Saturday, March 24th. $35.00 per family at the Ag Heritage Center. Call the Extension Office at 263-9226 to register.
Indoor Seed Starting – Wednesday, February 29th 6:30 – 8:30 p.m. – Join Master Gardener Ray Eckhart to learn about starting seeds indoors. As part of the class, attendees will build and take home a frame to support a lighting system suitable for home use. Fee is $25.00 and includes the material for building the frame.
Dairy Heifer Management Workshop – Thursday, February 23rd 9:30 – 3:30 at the Franklin County Ag Heritage Center. For dairy producers and their employees, this work-shop explores all factors necessary to effectively manage a successful heifer program, including: heifer nutrition and management, health and vaccination programs, and reproduction and synchronization. Fee is $12.50 for Pennsylvania dairy producers and their dairy employees. To register online, visit: http://estore.psu.edu/dairyalliance or call the Penn State Extension Dairy Team at 888-373-7232 (toll-free). More information on the event may be found at extension.psu.edu/production-agriculture/dairy.
Franklin County Crops and Soils Day 2012 – Thursday, March 1, 9:30 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. at the Ag Heritage Center. Fee is $10.00 and includes lunch. Space is limited, so please register as soon as possible. If you have any questions or would like more information, please call Jennifer Bratthauar, Extension Educator, at (717) 263-9226, ext. 228.
Backyard Fruit Series – Saturdays, March 10, 17, and 24 9:00 a.m.-11:00 a.m. – 181 Franklin Farm Lane. Fees are $10.00 per class, or $25.00 for the series. March 10 – Grapes, March 17 – Tree Fruit (Apples, Peaches, etc.), March 24 – Small Fruit (strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, etc.) Call the Extension office at 263-9226 to register.
Farm and Garden
Penn State Extension
Franklin County
181 Franklin Farm Lane
Chambersburg, PA 17202
Telephone: 717-263-9226
http://extension.psu.edu/franklin
COMING EVENTS AND WORKSHOPS:
Beginning Beekeeping - Thursdays, March 8, 15, 22, and 29 – 7:00 – 9:00 p.m. – 4 weekly sessions, plus site visit to a local Apiary on Saturday, March 24th. $35.00 per family at the Ag Heritage Center. Call the Extension Office at 263-9226 to register.
Indoor Seed Starting – Thursday, February 29th 6:30 – 8:30 p.m. – Join Master Gardener Ray Eckhart to learn about starting seeds indoors. As part of the class, attendees will build and take home a frame to support a lighting system suitable for home use. Fee is $25.00 and includes the material for building the frame.
Franklin County Crops and Soils Day 2012
The Franklin County Crops and Soils Day will be held on Thursday, March 1, 2012 at the Franklin County Ag Heritage Center, 185 Franklin Farm Lane, Chambersburg, PA. The topics that will be covered are plant diseases, soil compaction, understanding herbicide mode and site of action, forage management and alternative grain and silage cropping strategies. In addition, producers will receive brief updates on the revised Manure Management Manual and Agricultural Erosion and Sedimentation requirements. Pesticide credits are available and CCA credits are pending approval. The $10 registration fee includes lunch and the registration deadline is February 24, 2012. To register for the Crops and Soils Day, please call the Franklin County Penn State Extension office at (717) 263-9226. Space is limited, so please register as soon as possible. If you have any questions or would like more information, please call Jennifer Bratthauar, Extension Educator, at (717) 263-9226, ext. 228.
All America Selections for 2012
All-America Selections tests and introduces new flowers and vegetables each year that have done well in trials across North America. This year there were two flower winners, one bedding plant winner and two vegetable winners. Descriptions are taken directly from All-America Selection materials.
For more detailed information including how to grow each of the winners, go to the AAS site: http://www.all-americaselections.org/
The mission of the All America Selections is to promote new garden seed varieties with superior garden performance judged in impartial trials in North America.
Ornamental Pepper 'Black Olive', 2012 AAS Flower Award Winner
The AAS Judges said this entry was a standout, especially in the southern gardens where heat was a major presence during the 2011 trials. All season long this beauty kept its upright habit with nicely draping leaves and dark purple/black fruit which appeared in small clusters along the stems. As summer progresses, the fruits mature to red giving a beautiful contrast against the dark purple foliage and bright purple flowers. Retailers and growers can sell this multi-use ornamental as a 20” border plant, a great color splash for containers or as a cut flower in mixed bouquets.
Vinca 'Jams 'N Jellies Blackberry' 2012 AAS Flower Award Winner
Extremely unique, velvety deep purple with white eye flower color will add excitment to summer gardens. This superb accent plant will work beautifully in Americana color schemes and in combination with blue, pink, white or lavender. In some settings, the flower petals appear almost black, making this color a designer's delight. Easy to grow plants have excellent tolerance to drought and heat. Mature plants will reach 10-14 inches tall making them a perfect medium height divider. The 2-inch flowers are complimented by deep green shiny leaves creating a rich background for the richly dark flowers.
Salvia 'Summer Jewel Pink', 2012 AAS Bedding Plant Award Winner
Sister to earlier AAS Winner Salvia 'Summer Jewel Red', this dwarf sized, compact plant has a prolific bloom count throughout the growing season. As a bonus, the blooms appear almost two weeks earlier than other pink salvias used as comparisons. And of course, the hummingbirds love pink, just as much as they do red! Commercial growers will appreciate the earliness, excellent pack performance and uniformity.
Pepper 'Cayennetta', 2012 AAS Vegetable Award Winner
‘Cayennetta' is an excellent tasting, mildly spicy pepper that is very easy to grow, even for novice gardeners. This 3 to 4-inch chili pepper yielded bigger fruits from a very well branched upright plant that required no staking which would make it perfect for a container or patio planter. Unique to this variety is that it has good cold tolerance as well as dense foliage cover to protect the fruits from sun scorch and it handled extreme heat very well. This pepper is an all-around good choice no matter where you're gardening. Market growers will benefit from the heavy yield and prolific fruit set from each plant. Everyone will love the excellent pepper flavor that outshone all the comparison varieties.
Watermelon 'Faerie' F1, 2012 AAS Vegetable Award Winner
'Faerie' is a non-traditional watermelon in that it has a creamy yellow rind with thin stripes yet still yields sweet pink-red flesh with a high sugar content and crisp texture. Home gardeners will like growing something unique in their garden and the fact that the vines are vigorous yet spread only to 11' means it takes up less space in the garden. Each 7-8” fruit weighs only four to six pounds making it a perfect family size melon. Professional growers will appreciate the disease and insect tolerance as well as the prolific fruit set that starts early and continues throughout the season.
Forcing Stems of Woody Plants for Indoor Bloom
Stems of a number of woody plants can be forced into bloom for indoor display. Some plants are easier to force than others. Three of the easiest are forsythia, pussy willow, and flowering quince. These plants have now gone through enough cold weather to satisfy their chilling requirement and should bloom if given the right conditions.
Choose a day that is above freezing for collecting branches for blooming. Keep the stem length to 3 feet or less. As you cut, place the stems in a bucket of water. Once you have the number of branches you want, bring them into the house and soak them in warm water for several hours – a bathtub works well for this. This ensures that the stems and buds are fully hydrated. Next, place them in a container that has a warm, preservative solution and place them in an environment with high humidity and plenty of light.
Make your preservative solution by dissolving packets of floral preservative in water. These packets can be obtained from your local florist. Floral preservatives accomplish two functions; they prevent bacterial growth in your water and provide nutrients for the plants. Houses tend to have a very low relative humidity during the winter. These low humidity levels can lead to dehydration of flower buds and blossoms. To raise the humidity around your plants, mist them or drape a dry cleaner's bag over them. Humidifiers can also help raise humidity levels. Normally, forsythia will take about nine days to flower, quince will require between 12 to 20, and pussy willow needs from five to 15 days. The time required will vary depending on indoor conditions and how late in the winter the branches were collected. Most woody plants should be in flower within three weeks of collection and will remain in flower for about a week before blooms start to fade.
"Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce”
The Pennsylvania State University is committed to the policy that all persons shall have equal access to programs, facilities, admission, and employment without regard to personal characteristics not related to ability, performance, or qualifications as determined by University policy or by state or federal authorities. It is the policy of the University to maintain an academic and work environment free of discrimination, including harassment. The Pennsylvania State University prohibits discrimination and harassment against any person because of age, ancestry, color, disability or handicap, national origin, race, religious creed, sex, sexual orientation, or veteran status. Discrimination or harassment against faculty, staff, or students will not be tolerated at The Pennsylvania State University. Direct all inquiries regarding the nondiscrimination policy to the Affirmative Action Director, The Pennsylvania State University, 328 Boucke Building, University Park, PA 16802-5901, Tel 814-865-4700/V, 814-863-1150/TTY.
Penn State Extension
Franklin County
181 Franklin Farm Lane
Chambersburg, PA 17202
Telephone: 717-263-9226
http://extension.psu.edu/franklin
COMING EVENTS AND WORKSHOPS:
Beginning Beekeeping - Thursdays, March 8, 15, 22, and 29 – 7:00 – 9:00 p.m. – 4 weekly sessions, plus site visit to a local Apiary on Saturday, March 24th. $35.00 per family at the Ag Heritage Center. Call the Extension Office at 263-9226 to register.
Indoor Seed Starting – Thursday, February 29th 6:30 – 8:30 p.m. – Join Master Gardener Ray Eckhart to learn about starting seeds indoors. As part of the class, attendees will build and take home a frame to support a lighting system suitable for home use. Fee is $25.00 and includes the material for building the frame.
Franklin County Crops and Soils Day 2012
The Franklin County Crops and Soils Day will be held on Thursday, March 1, 2012 at the Franklin County Ag Heritage Center, 185 Franklin Farm Lane, Chambersburg, PA. The topics that will be covered are plant diseases, soil compaction, understanding herbicide mode and site of action, forage management and alternative grain and silage cropping strategies. In addition, producers will receive brief updates on the revised Manure Management Manual and Agricultural Erosion and Sedimentation requirements. Pesticide credits are available and CCA credits are pending approval. The $10 registration fee includes lunch and the registration deadline is February 24, 2012. To register for the Crops and Soils Day, please call the Franklin County Penn State Extension office at (717) 263-9226. Space is limited, so please register as soon as possible. If you have any questions or would like more information, please call Jennifer Bratthauar, Extension Educator, at (717) 263-9226, ext. 228.
All America Selections for 2012
All-America Selections tests and introduces new flowers and vegetables each year that have done well in trials across North America. This year there were two flower winners, one bedding plant winner and two vegetable winners. Descriptions are taken directly from All-America Selection materials.
For more detailed information including how to grow each of the winners, go to the AAS site: http://www.all-americaselections.org/
The mission of the All America Selections is to promote new garden seed varieties with superior garden performance judged in impartial trials in North America.
Ornamental Pepper 'Black Olive', 2012 AAS Flower Award Winner
The AAS Judges said this entry was a standout, especially in the southern gardens where heat was a major presence during the 2011 trials. All season long this beauty kept its upright habit with nicely draping leaves and dark purple/black fruit which appeared in small clusters along the stems. As summer progresses, the fruits mature to red giving a beautiful contrast against the dark purple foliage and bright purple flowers. Retailers and growers can sell this multi-use ornamental as a 20” border plant, a great color splash for containers or as a cut flower in mixed bouquets.
Vinca 'Jams 'N Jellies Blackberry' 2012 AAS Flower Award Winner
Extremely unique, velvety deep purple with white eye flower color will add excitment to summer gardens. This superb accent plant will work beautifully in Americana color schemes and in combination with blue, pink, white or lavender. In some settings, the flower petals appear almost black, making this color a designer's delight. Easy to grow plants have excellent tolerance to drought and heat. Mature plants will reach 10-14 inches tall making them a perfect medium height divider. The 2-inch flowers are complimented by deep green shiny leaves creating a rich background for the richly dark flowers.
Salvia 'Summer Jewel Pink', 2012 AAS Bedding Plant Award Winner
Sister to earlier AAS Winner Salvia 'Summer Jewel Red', this dwarf sized, compact plant has a prolific bloom count throughout the growing season. As a bonus, the blooms appear almost two weeks earlier than other pink salvias used as comparisons. And of course, the hummingbirds love pink, just as much as they do red! Commercial growers will appreciate the earliness, excellent pack performance and uniformity.
Pepper 'Cayennetta', 2012 AAS Vegetable Award Winner
‘Cayennetta' is an excellent tasting, mildly spicy pepper that is very easy to grow, even for novice gardeners. This 3 to 4-inch chili pepper yielded bigger fruits from a very well branched upright plant that required no staking which would make it perfect for a container or patio planter. Unique to this variety is that it has good cold tolerance as well as dense foliage cover to protect the fruits from sun scorch and it handled extreme heat very well. This pepper is an all-around good choice no matter where you're gardening. Market growers will benefit from the heavy yield and prolific fruit set from each plant. Everyone will love the excellent pepper flavor that outshone all the comparison varieties.
Watermelon 'Faerie' F1, 2012 AAS Vegetable Award Winner
'Faerie' is a non-traditional watermelon in that it has a creamy yellow rind with thin stripes yet still yields sweet pink-red flesh with a high sugar content and crisp texture. Home gardeners will like growing something unique in their garden and the fact that the vines are vigorous yet spread only to 11' means it takes up less space in the garden. Each 7-8” fruit weighs only four to six pounds making it a perfect family size melon. Professional growers will appreciate the disease and insect tolerance as well as the prolific fruit set that starts early and continues throughout the season.
Forcing Stems of Woody Plants for Indoor Bloom
Stems of a number of woody plants can be forced into bloom for indoor display. Some plants are easier to force than others. Three of the easiest are forsythia, pussy willow, and flowering quince. These plants have now gone through enough cold weather to satisfy their chilling requirement and should bloom if given the right conditions.
Choose a day that is above freezing for collecting branches for blooming. Keep the stem length to 3 feet or less. As you cut, place the stems in a bucket of water. Once you have the number of branches you want, bring them into the house and soak them in warm water for several hours – a bathtub works well for this. This ensures that the stems and buds are fully hydrated. Next, place them in a container that has a warm, preservative solution and place them in an environment with high humidity and plenty of light.
Make your preservative solution by dissolving packets of floral preservative in water. These packets can be obtained from your local florist. Floral preservatives accomplish two functions; they prevent bacterial growth in your water and provide nutrients for the plants. Houses tend to have a very low relative humidity during the winter. These low humidity levels can lead to dehydration of flower buds and blossoms. To raise the humidity around your plants, mist them or drape a dry cleaner's bag over them. Humidifiers can also help raise humidity levels. Normally, forsythia will take about nine days to flower, quince will require between 12 to 20, and pussy willow needs from five to 15 days. The time required will vary depending on indoor conditions and how late in the winter the branches were collected. Most woody plants should be in flower within three weeks of collection and will remain in flower for about a week before blooms start to fade.
"Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce”
The Pennsylvania State University is committed to the policy that all persons shall have equal access to programs, facilities, admission, and employment without regard to personal characteristics not related to ability, performance, or qualifications as determined by University policy or by state or federal authorities. It is the policy of the University to maintain an academic and work environment free of discrimination, including harassment. The Pennsylvania State University prohibits discrimination and harassment against any person because of age, ancestry, color, disability or handicap, national origin, race, religious creed, sex, sexual orientation, or veteran status. Discrimination or harassment against faculty, staff, or students will not be tolerated at The Pennsylvania State University. Direct all inquiries regarding the nondiscrimination policy to the Affirmative Action Director, The Pennsylvania State University, 328 Boucke Building, University Park, PA 16802-5901, Tel 814-865-4700/V, 814-863-1150/TTY.
Farm and Garden
Penn State Extension
Franklin County
181 Franklin Farm Lane
Chambersburg, PA 17202
Telephone: 717-263-9226
For the week of February 6th, 2012
http://extension.psu.edu/franklin
COMING EVENTS AND WORKSHOPS:
Managing Your Property to Reduce Ticks - Thursday, February 9th, 7:00 PM, at the Ag Heritage Center. The meeting is free and open to the public. No registration required. For more information, contact Fred Peabody at 717-776-3565 (email: fredp5@earthlink.net).
Beginning Beekeeping - Thursdays, March 8, 15, 22, and 29 – 7:00 – 9:00 p.m. – 4 weekly sessions, plus site visit to a local Apiary on Saturday, March 24th. $35.00 per family at the Ag Heritage Center. Call the Extension Office at 263-9226 to register.
Starting Seeds Indoors – Thursday, February 29th 6:30 – 8:30 p.m. – Join Master Gardener Ray Eckhart to learn about starting seeds indoors. As part of the class, attendees will build and take home a frame to support a lighting system suitable for home use. Fee is $25.00 and includes the material for building the frame.
What's New in Sweet Peppers?
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From Kansas State University: There are many new varieties of sweet bell and longhorn sweet peppers available for commercial and home growers. Colored bell peppers have become very popular with consumers who are willing to pay more for a red, yellow, or orange bell pepper as opposed to a green one. The long sweet, but not bell, peppers also come in a range of colors. For several years we have been conducting statewide Master Gardener observational and limited yield trials on peppers and tomatoes. Several outstanding varieties have been identified. Bell pepper cultivars that have performed well include Flavorburst, Revolution, Declaration, Karisma, and Alliance. Bells that have done poorly for 2 or more years are SummerSweet 8620 and Polaris.
The only true bell pepper we have found that yields well and colors early and consistently is Flavorburst. It starts out a light, pale green color and then becomes bright yellow well before other bells. It has also been one of the highest yielding cultivars we have grown. One caution, however, is that Flavorburst has no reported disease resistance so if disease has been a problem for you, try it sparingly.
The longhorn sweet peppers have yielded very well, especially all of the hybrid sweet banana types (Pageant, Boris, Ringo and Banana Bill). Also outstanding have been Carmen, Marcato, and TI-100 Yellow. As a rule, the long peppers color up earlier than the bells and can be substituted for most bell pepper uses except for baking and stuffing. They work especially well for grilling as the long slices do not fall through the grill as easily as the "C" shaped slices of the bell pepper.
How to Read Seed Catalogs
Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor at the University of Vermont has some sound advice on how to read seed catalogs.
On one of those particularly cold and blustery wintry days, I like to gather up all the seed catalogs that have arrived in my mailbox and settle down for a good read. Even if you don’t plan to buy from them but buy locally this spring, you can learn much from catalogs if you understand a few key terms and all that may be packed into the descriptions.
Of course it helps to have a pen and paper, or perhaps a laptop, handy to note all your choices and plans. If you have a laptop computer or other internet access handy, you might want to check out the seed catalogs online too. Many offer web-only specials.
Ordering from seed catalogs is both convenient, and a good way to get a wider selection than usually is available locally, especially if you are looking for quite new or unusual varieties. Yet most catalogs offer a lot more than just an order list for seeds and plants. I like to compare several catalogs, as they usually emphasize different points.
The first item that should catch your eye in catalogs, other than photos, is the name of the flower or vegetable. The words “New” or “Improved” aren’t just selling points, they often mean the variety has been changed in some trait, perhaps substantially.
Icons are used to highlight key traits, such as a sun for heat tolerance, a snowflake for cold tolerance, or a pot meaning good in containers. Look for the key to these icons, which vary among catalogs, at the beginning or often on the bottom of each page. One icon used for most is the red, white and blue All-America Selections shield, indicating this variety won this award, being judged by professionals nationwide as superior (www.all-americaselections.org).
Letters you may see by some crops are F1 and OP. These refer, respectively, to F1 hybrids (first generation, compared to F2 which is second generation) and Open Pollinated. The former are crosses between two parents, to produce a variety with hybrid traits and vigor. If you collect seeds of these F1 hybrids, they won’t give you the same variety. Open pollinated plants, on the other hand, will come “true” from their seeds when sown.
Other code letters you will see with some plants, in particular some vegetables such as vine crops and tomatoes, are ones referring to disease resistance. Choose these varieties, and you may have fewer diseases in the garden to deal with. In one catalog I saw over 50 listed—not all of course for one crop. Some of the main ones to watch for on tomatoes for instance are TMV (tobacco mosaic virus), TSWV (tomato spotted wilt virus), V (verticillium wilt), and F (fusarium wilt). If there has been late blight in your area in recent years, wiping out tomatoes, look for the few with resistance to this (LB).
The other key point in seed catalog descriptions is days to maturity. This could mean from sowing or in the case of slow crops the days from setting out plants. Check the catalog to make sure what is meant. This is particularly important in northern areas with short growing seasons (days between frosts), in order to get flowers or in the case of vegetables their fruits. Even with this, if a summer is particularly cool and the crop likes warmth, it may mature more slowly.
Descriptions are useful for specifics such as fruit or flower color, particular flavors of vegetables, heights and spreads. Even these may vary greatly among catalogs, so compare several, and they may vary from your own garden. Beware of general and glowing adjectives such as “good”, “popular”, or “large”, as these are relative and may have little meaning in your own garden. Just as the photos are often “enhanced” (don’t get disappointed if your flowers and vegetables don’t look as luscious), so are many descriptions.
To avoid ending up with too many seeds, roughly map out your garden to scale, then “fit in” the varieties you want grow. A good catalog will give the approximate seeds per packet, and spacing when planting seedlings or sowing seeds. So, for instance, for sweet corn you may see 150 seeds per packet. If the recommendation is to plant 3 seeds per foot, this packet would sow 50 feet of row.
You should also see growing tips for each crop, as in the case of corn it’s best to plant several rows close together for best pollination. So rather than one long row, five 10-foot rows, three feet apart would be better. So the simple math means you need an area 10 by 3 feet, or 30 square feet just for this packet of corn seeds.
The good news is, if you end up with too many seeds, most store well for a year or more in a jar in the refrigerator. Or, order with a friend and share the seeds.
If you don’t have any catalogs, and aren’t on their mail lists already, search online for some. You can invariably order up a printed copy to be mailed from their websites, as well as see the range of plants they offer and any specialties. Especially in the case of vegetables, if you like a crop in particular, such as lettuce or tomatoes or peppers, you may be surprised how many selections you can find. Just remember, don’t get carried away with more than you and your garden space can handle—something I continually seem to neglect!
For more on seed catalogs and some information from Master Gardeners on tomato recommendations for 2012, see
http://franklincountymgs.blogspot.com/2012/01/seed-catalogs-tomatoes-for-2012.html
Learn how to start your seeds indoors, and build your own frame for a lighting system by attending the Indoor Seed Starting workshop scheduled for Thursday, February 29th from 6:30-8:30 p.m. Call the Extension Office at 717-263-9226 to register. Class is limited to 25.
"Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce”
The Pennsylvania State University is committed to the policy that all persons shall have equal access to programs, facilities, admission, and employment without regard to personal characteristics not related to ability, performance, or qualifications as determined by University policy or by state or federal authorities. It is the policy of the University to maintain an academic and work environment free of discrimination, including harassment. The Pennsylvania State University prohibits discrimination and harassment against any person because of age, ancestry, color, disability or handicap, national origin, race, religious creed, sex, sexual orientation, or veteran status. Discrimination or harassment against faculty, staff, or students will not be tolerated at The Pennsylvania State University. Direct all inquiries regarding the nondiscrimination policy to the Affirmative Action Director, The Pennsylvania State University, 328 Boucke Building, University Park, PA 16802-5901, Tel 814-865-4700/V, 814-863-1150/TTY.
Penn State Extension
Franklin County
181 Franklin Farm Lane
Chambersburg, PA 17202
Telephone: 717-263-9226
For the week of February 6th, 2012
http://extension.psu.edu/franklin
COMING EVENTS AND WORKSHOPS:
Managing Your Property to Reduce Ticks - Thursday, February 9th, 7:00 PM, at the Ag Heritage Center. The meeting is free and open to the public. No registration required. For more information, contact Fred Peabody at 717-776-3565 (email: fredp5@earthlink.net).
Beginning Beekeeping - Thursdays, March 8, 15, 22, and 29 – 7:00 – 9:00 p.m. – 4 weekly sessions, plus site visit to a local Apiary on Saturday, March 24th. $35.00 per family at the Ag Heritage Center. Call the Extension Office at 263-9226 to register.
Starting Seeds Indoors – Thursday, February 29th 6:30 – 8:30 p.m. – Join Master Gardener Ray Eckhart to learn about starting seeds indoors. As part of the class, attendees will build and take home a frame to support a lighting system suitable for home use. Fee is $25.00 and includes the material for building the frame.
What's New in Sweet Peppers?
From Kansas State University: There are many new varieties of sweet bell and longhorn sweet peppers available for commercial and home growers. Colored bell peppers have become very popular with consumers who are willing to pay more for a red, yellow, or orange bell pepper as opposed to a green one. The long sweet, but not bell, peppers also come in a range of colors. For several years we have been conducting statewide Master Gardener observational and limited yield trials on peppers and tomatoes. Several outstanding varieties have been identified. Bell pepper cultivars that have performed well include Flavorburst, Revolution, Declaration, Karisma, and Alliance. Bells that have done poorly for 2 or more years are SummerSweet 8620 and Polaris.
The only true bell pepper we have found that yields well and colors early and consistently is Flavorburst. It starts out a light, pale green color and then becomes bright yellow well before other bells. It has also been one of the highest yielding cultivars we have grown. One caution, however, is that Flavorburst has no reported disease resistance so if disease has been a problem for you, try it sparingly.
The longhorn sweet peppers have yielded very well, especially all of the hybrid sweet banana types (Pageant, Boris, Ringo and Banana Bill). Also outstanding have been Carmen, Marcato, and TI-100 Yellow. As a rule, the long peppers color up earlier than the bells and can be substituted for most bell pepper uses except for baking and stuffing. They work especially well for grilling as the long slices do not fall through the grill as easily as the "C" shaped slices of the bell pepper.
How to Read Seed Catalogs
Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor at the University of Vermont has some sound advice on how to read seed catalogs.
On one of those particularly cold and blustery wintry days, I like to gather up all the seed catalogs that have arrived in my mailbox and settle down for a good read. Even if you don’t plan to buy from them but buy locally this spring, you can learn much from catalogs if you understand a few key terms and all that may be packed into the descriptions.
Of course it helps to have a pen and paper, or perhaps a laptop, handy to note all your choices and plans. If you have a laptop computer or other internet access handy, you might want to check out the seed catalogs online too. Many offer web-only specials.
Ordering from seed catalogs is both convenient, and a good way to get a wider selection than usually is available locally, especially if you are looking for quite new or unusual varieties. Yet most catalogs offer a lot more than just an order list for seeds and plants. I like to compare several catalogs, as they usually emphasize different points.
The first item that should catch your eye in catalogs, other than photos, is the name of the flower or vegetable. The words “New” or “Improved” aren’t just selling points, they often mean the variety has been changed in some trait, perhaps substantially.
Icons are used to highlight key traits, such as a sun for heat tolerance, a snowflake for cold tolerance, or a pot meaning good in containers. Look for the key to these icons, which vary among catalogs, at the beginning or often on the bottom of each page. One icon used for most is the red, white and blue All-America Selections shield, indicating this variety won this award, being judged by professionals nationwide as superior (www.all-americaselections.org).
Letters you may see by some crops are F1 and OP. These refer, respectively, to F1 hybrids (first generation, compared to F2 which is second generation) and Open Pollinated. The former are crosses between two parents, to produce a variety with hybrid traits and vigor. If you collect seeds of these F1 hybrids, they won’t give you the same variety. Open pollinated plants, on the other hand, will come “true” from their seeds when sown.
Other code letters you will see with some plants, in particular some vegetables such as vine crops and tomatoes, are ones referring to disease resistance. Choose these varieties, and you may have fewer diseases in the garden to deal with. In one catalog I saw over 50 listed—not all of course for one crop. Some of the main ones to watch for on tomatoes for instance are TMV (tobacco mosaic virus), TSWV (tomato spotted wilt virus), V (verticillium wilt), and F (fusarium wilt). If there has been late blight in your area in recent years, wiping out tomatoes, look for the few with resistance to this (LB).
The other key point in seed catalog descriptions is days to maturity. This could mean from sowing or in the case of slow crops the days from setting out plants. Check the catalog to make sure what is meant. This is particularly important in northern areas with short growing seasons (days between frosts), in order to get flowers or in the case of vegetables their fruits. Even with this, if a summer is particularly cool and the crop likes warmth, it may mature more slowly.
Descriptions are useful for specifics such as fruit or flower color, particular flavors of vegetables, heights and spreads. Even these may vary greatly among catalogs, so compare several, and they may vary from your own garden. Beware of general and glowing adjectives such as “good”, “popular”, or “large”, as these are relative and may have little meaning in your own garden. Just as the photos are often “enhanced” (don’t get disappointed if your flowers and vegetables don’t look as luscious), so are many descriptions.
To avoid ending up with too many seeds, roughly map out your garden to scale, then “fit in” the varieties you want grow. A good catalog will give the approximate seeds per packet, and spacing when planting seedlings or sowing seeds. So, for instance, for sweet corn you may see 150 seeds per packet. If the recommendation is to plant 3 seeds per foot, this packet would sow 50 feet of row.
You should also see growing tips for each crop, as in the case of corn it’s best to plant several rows close together for best pollination. So rather than one long row, five 10-foot rows, three feet apart would be better. So the simple math means you need an area 10 by 3 feet, or 30 square feet just for this packet of corn seeds.
The good news is, if you end up with too many seeds, most store well for a year or more in a jar in the refrigerator. Or, order with a friend and share the seeds.
If you don’t have any catalogs, and aren’t on their mail lists already, search online for some. You can invariably order up a printed copy to be mailed from their websites, as well as see the range of plants they offer and any specialties. Especially in the case of vegetables, if you like a crop in particular, such as lettuce or tomatoes or peppers, you may be surprised how many selections you can find. Just remember, don’t get carried away with more than you and your garden space can handle—something I continually seem to neglect!
For more on seed catalogs and some information from Master Gardeners on tomato recommendations for 2012, see
http://franklincountymgs.blogspot.com/2012/01/seed-catalogs-tomatoes-for-2012.html
Learn how to start your seeds indoors, and build your own frame for a lighting system by attending the Indoor Seed Starting workshop scheduled for Thursday, February 29th from 6:30-8:30 p.m. Call the Extension Office at 717-263-9226 to register. Class is limited to 25.
"Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce”
The Pennsylvania State University is committed to the policy that all persons shall have equal access to programs, facilities, admission, and employment without regard to personal characteristics not related to ability, performance, or qualifications as determined by University policy or by state or federal authorities. It is the policy of the University to maintain an academic and work environment free of discrimination, including harassment. The Pennsylvania State University prohibits discrimination and harassment against any person because of age, ancestry, color, disability or handicap, national origin, race, religious creed, sex, sexual orientation, or veteran status. Discrimination or harassment against faculty, staff, or students will not be tolerated at The Pennsylvania State University. Direct all inquiries regarding the nondiscrimination policy to the Affirmative Action Director, The Pennsylvania State University, 328 Boucke Building, University Park, PA 16802-5901, Tel 814-865-4700/V, 814-863-1150/TTY.
15/07: UNUSUAL FLOWERS
Master Gardener Kathy Engle notes what folks notice in her gardens. When walking through gardens, isn't it always the unusual flower that pulls you in for a closer look. The flowers I share with you below are by no means rare, but the ones that often get the most attention.
According to Smith’s Exotic Botany of 1805, “The more refined admirers of Nature” rate Astrantia among their favorite blossoms. I don't know how refined I am, but I sure admire Astrantia. The flowers bloom like tiny enchanting fireworks. If a natural look is what you’re after, plant a long-blooming Astrantia. Slugs do not like Astrantias, so interplant them among your other shade plants to repel them.
The wildflower Knautia macedonica is one of the few flowers that does not have a widely used common name among gardeners. The blooms begin in spring and with deadheading will continue until first frost. Knautia wants lots of sun but will tolerate a little shade and requires well-draining soil. The blooms tend to be floppy, so plant along side sturdier flowers. Once established as a sturdy clump, it will be fairly drought tolerant with just occasional deep waterings. While Knautia's individual clumps are not long lived, it may self-seed to naturalize in the garden.
According to Smith’s Exotic Botany of 1805, “The more refined admirers of Nature” rate Astrantia among their favorite blossoms. I don't know how refined I am, but I sure admire Astrantia. The flowers bloom like tiny enchanting fireworks. If a natural look is what you’re after, plant a long-blooming Astrantia. Slugs do not like Astrantias, so interplant them among your other shade plants to repel them.
The wildflower Knautia macedonica is one of the few flowers that does not have a widely used common name among gardeners. The blooms begin in spring and with deadheading will continue until first frost. Knautia wants lots of sun but will tolerate a little shade and requires well-draining soil. The blooms tend to be floppy, so plant along side sturdier flowers. Once established as a sturdy clump, it will be fairly drought tolerant with just occasional deep waterings. While Knautia's individual clumps are not long lived, it may self-seed to naturalize in the garden.
Master Gardener Sylvia Kremp shares her experiences with Rain Gardens. Now that summer is here, it seems we either experience drought or downpours, neither of which is desirable. However, most yards, gardens, farms, and/or businesses have troublesome low spots where water pools, potentially causing flooding or attracting mosquitoes, but which have the potential to become planted oases. These natural or constructed depressions, when populated with native species of trees, perennials, and even bog plants, not only absorb water that would otherwise run off hard surfaces such as roofs and driveways, but also filter and purify it, keeping it in our local groundwater to replenish our aquifers instead of sending it down storm drains to the Chesapeake Bay still full of pollutants.
Unlike cisterns, rain barrels, or retention ponds, which are all valuable ways to conserve water, rain gardens do not store water but instead use it productively rather than wasting it. In addition, these shallow basins allow water to be absorbed gradually, over a period of a few days, reducing mosquito populations since they do not have enough time to complete their life cycles. Another benefit is that a rain garden supports a wide variety of beneficial wildlife, providing valuable food and habitat in otherwise urban and suburban areas.
Many communities are actively encouraging homeowners, and public institutions like schools and businesses, to create these beautiful solutions to otherwise vexing, recurring standing water/erosion problems. An excellent example of a rain garden constructed to solve flooding problems in a large, paved parking lot can be viewed at the Chambersburg Area School District on Stanley Avenue. Funded by the PA Department of Environmental Protection as an Environmental Education Grant program, it was installed by the Chambersburg Agricultural Education classes under the direction of project manager, Jonathan Seaman.
Another public garden can be visited at the Experimental Wildlife Garden area at the Penn State Cooperative Extension in Franklin County, located on Franklin Farm Lane, which utilizes a naturally occurring slope down to the barn where willow trees, ferns, and other native, water-loving plants thrive.
Unlike cisterns, rain barrels, or retention ponds, which are all valuable ways to conserve water, rain gardens do not store water but instead use it productively rather than wasting it. In addition, these shallow basins allow water to be absorbed gradually, over a period of a few days, reducing mosquito populations since they do not have enough time to complete their life cycles. Another benefit is that a rain garden supports a wide variety of beneficial wildlife, providing valuable food and habitat in otherwise urban and suburban areas.
Many communities are actively encouraging homeowners, and public institutions like schools and businesses, to create these beautiful solutions to otherwise vexing, recurring standing water/erosion problems. An excellent example of a rain garden constructed to solve flooding problems in a large, paved parking lot can be viewed at the Chambersburg Area School District on Stanley Avenue. Funded by the PA Department of Environmental Protection as an Environmental Education Grant program, it was installed by the Chambersburg Agricultural Education classes under the direction of project manager, Jonathan Seaman.
Another public garden can be visited at the Experimental Wildlife Garden area at the Penn State Cooperative Extension in Franklin County, located on Franklin Farm Lane, which utilizes a naturally occurring slope down to the barn where willow trees, ferns, and other native, water-loving plants thrive.
12/07: Bee and Wasp Nest Collection
Extension Educator Alex Surcica is conducting research on bees, wasps, and hornets and is seeking samples from homeowners in the area. Rather than reaching for insecticide to kill these fascinating insects, contact Alex at 263-9226 or email him at aps15@ psu.edu if you have a nest that he can capture.
12/07: COMING EVENTS & WORKSHOPS:
Thursday, July 21, 2011 6:30-9:00 p.m. Water Bath Canning - Learn to preserve food safely and correctly. This will be a hands-on workshop where you can practice your canning skills as a beginner or experienced preserver.
Thursday, July 28, 2011 6:00-9:00 p.m. Canning Under Pressure - This will be a hands-on workshop where you can practice your pressure canning skills and learn safely how to can low acid foods with a pressure canner to prevent spoilage.
Thursday, August 4, 2011 7:00-9:00 p.m. Freezing and Drying - Learn how to freeze fruits and vegetables quickly and safely for a high quality product. Learn how to dry fruits, vegetables, herbs and meats.
The above classes cost $15.00 each, or $40.00 for the series.
For additional information, please call the Extension Office at 717-263-9226
Thursday, July 28, 2011 6:00-9:00 p.m. Canning Under Pressure - This will be a hands-on workshop where you can practice your pressure canning skills and learn safely how to can low acid foods with a pressure canner to prevent spoilage.
Thursday, August 4, 2011 7:00-9:00 p.m. Freezing and Drying - Learn how to freeze fruits and vegetables quickly and safely for a high quality product. Learn how to dry fruits, vegetables, herbs and meats.
The above classes cost $15.00 each, or $40.00 for the series.
For additional information, please call the Extension Office at 717-263-9226
Did you know that many plants that have “lily” as part of their common name (daylilies) are not “true” lilies? True lilies belong to the genus Lilium. Cultivated for more than 5,000 years, Liliums are one of the most treasured species among all perennial flowers. Cultivated lilies are classified into eight divisions based upon the number of blooms per stem, shape and presentation, of the individual flowers, and a separate class exists for species lilies.
Asiatic and Oriental lilies are the two most popular types of lilies for northern gardens. As the names suggest, Asiatic lilies have their origins in several areas in Asia, while the Oriental lilies started from a few species native to Japan.
Asiatic lilies are among the easiest to grow. They're very hardy, need no staking, and are not particularly fussy about soil, as long as it drains well. If you like flowers which multiply prolifically, bloom early, and have bright powerful colors, then Asiatics may be for you. On the other hand, if you like heavenly scented flowers, Oriental lilies are the way to go. Oriental lilies tend to be more aromatic, but are a bit trickier to grow and will spread much more slowly.
Where, When and How to Plant Your Lilium
Lily bulbs may be planted in spring or in the fall, usually from mid-September through mid-October. If you find hardy lilies growing in containers, you may add them to your garden throughout the growing season. When buying locally, select firm, plump bulbs with roots attached. Plant them as soon as possible. Bulbs never go completely dormant so they must not dry out before planting.
Both Asiatic and Oriental lilies need five to six hours of sunlight every day. Oriental varieties, however, prefer afternoon shade too.
Never plant lilies where standing water collects after heavy rainfall. Well-drained soil is an absolute must. Add lots of organic matter to clay soil to create a raised area with improved drainage. Incorporate organic matter into light, sandy soil also, to help hold onto nutrients and prevent it from drying too rapidly.
Before winter, mulch over newly planted bulbs with four to six inches of loose, weed-free compost, leaves, or wood chips. This delays soil freezing and allows roots to continue growing longer. Mulch also insulates the soil against fluctuating temperatures, delaying the emergence of frost-tender shoots in spring.
Tiger Lilies (Lilium lancifolium) should be kept apart from other lilies since they can be carriers of viruses.
Caring for Your Lilies
In spring, leave mulch in place until the danger of hard frost has passed. If lily shoots grow through the mulch, start to remove the mulch gradually – but leave it nearby so you can cover them again if another hard frost is predicted.
Fertilize the soil each spring with a phosphorus-rich formula such as 5–10–10. Slow-release fertilizers work well. Always follow label instructions when applying fertilizer.
Lilies usually have few pests, but rabbits and slugs can be a menace to emerging shoots. Aphids – small sucking insects – can also cause problems for flower buds. Carefully wash the affected plants with water sprayed forcefully from your garden hose to remove aphids.
Botrytis blight, a fungal disease, causes reddish-brown leaf spots and is often the result of damp weather or evening watering. When you water at night, the leaves often stay wet until the sun comes out and dries them the following morning, encouraging foliar diseases) Whenever possible, water early in the day, or water at the base of the plant rather than over head. Adequate spacing between clusters of lilies also promotes good air circulation and may help prevent disease.
Deadhead flowers as they fade, by breaking them off carefully. That way, none of the plant's energy is “wasted” on seed production. Do not remove stems or foliage, though. They'll continue to put energy into the bulb as long as they remain green. Remove old foliage in late fall or early spring by cutting down the dead stalks. Lilies need well-drained soil in an area that receives sun or part shade. Lilies, like clematises, prefer their flowers and leaves in the sun while their roots prefer shade. They need to be kept moist. Lilies can be planted either in the fall or spring, whenever the bulbs are available.
Handle the bulbs carefully because the scales can be easily broken off. Space them 6 to 10 inches apart. Plant lilies with 4 to 6 inches of soil covering the bulb. This allows them to form roots along their stems. Tall lilies should be staked and protected from high winds. Mulch well to keep lily roots cool. Remove blooms when they die to prevent seedpod formation. Cut stems off at ground level after they turn brown, but never cut them down while the leaves are still green.
Dividing Bulbs
Lily bulbs do not need to be divided every year. Generally, every two to three years is sufficient. If you notice that your garden is overcrowded and the lilies are blooming less than they were in previous years, then it's time to divide your bulbs. They are all using a limited amount of nutrients and water in a limited amount of space and need more room to thrive.
They are best divided in the fall, just after the foliage has turned yellowish-brown. This way, the plant has had a sufficient amount of time to absorb lots of sunlight and convert it to sugar (plant food) through the process of photosynthesis before you cut off the foliage and dig up the bulbs for division. You can also divide your bulbs during other times of the year--early spring is the second best time of year--however, your bulbs may experience stress, especially if you divide the bulbs in the middle of their growing season. Divide lily bulbs with your hands by pulling off attached bulbs. Do not use a knife. Throw out any bulbs that are rotted or damaged.
After you have dug up your bulbs and divided them, it is essential that you replant them within a few days. Plant lily bulbs about 4 to 8 inches deep with the tips facing up. Space multiple plants 10 to 12 inches apart.
More information can be found on the web:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/dg1112.html
http://franklincountymgs.blogspot.com/2011/06/liliums-true-lilies.html
Asiatic and Oriental lilies are the two most popular types of lilies for northern gardens. As the names suggest, Asiatic lilies have their origins in several areas in Asia, while the Oriental lilies started from a few species native to Japan.
Asiatic lilies are among the easiest to grow. They're very hardy, need no staking, and are not particularly fussy about soil, as long as it drains well. If you like flowers which multiply prolifically, bloom early, and have bright powerful colors, then Asiatics may be for you. On the other hand, if you like heavenly scented flowers, Oriental lilies are the way to go. Oriental lilies tend to be more aromatic, but are a bit trickier to grow and will spread much more slowly.
Where, When and How to Plant Your Lilium
Lily bulbs may be planted in spring or in the fall, usually from mid-September through mid-October. If you find hardy lilies growing in containers, you may add them to your garden throughout the growing season. When buying locally, select firm, plump bulbs with roots attached. Plant them as soon as possible. Bulbs never go completely dormant so they must not dry out before planting.
Both Asiatic and Oriental lilies need five to six hours of sunlight every day. Oriental varieties, however, prefer afternoon shade too.
Never plant lilies where standing water collects after heavy rainfall. Well-drained soil is an absolute must. Add lots of organic matter to clay soil to create a raised area with improved drainage. Incorporate organic matter into light, sandy soil also, to help hold onto nutrients and prevent it from drying too rapidly.
Before winter, mulch over newly planted bulbs with four to six inches of loose, weed-free compost, leaves, or wood chips. This delays soil freezing and allows roots to continue growing longer. Mulch also insulates the soil against fluctuating temperatures, delaying the emergence of frost-tender shoots in spring.
Tiger Lilies (Lilium lancifolium) should be kept apart from other lilies since they can be carriers of viruses.
Caring for Your Lilies
In spring, leave mulch in place until the danger of hard frost has passed. If lily shoots grow through the mulch, start to remove the mulch gradually – but leave it nearby so you can cover them again if another hard frost is predicted.
Fertilize the soil each spring with a phosphorus-rich formula such as 5–10–10. Slow-release fertilizers work well. Always follow label instructions when applying fertilizer.
Lilies usually have few pests, but rabbits and slugs can be a menace to emerging shoots. Aphids – small sucking insects – can also cause problems for flower buds. Carefully wash the affected plants with water sprayed forcefully from your garden hose to remove aphids.
Botrytis blight, a fungal disease, causes reddish-brown leaf spots and is often the result of damp weather or evening watering. When you water at night, the leaves often stay wet until the sun comes out and dries them the following morning, encouraging foliar diseases) Whenever possible, water early in the day, or water at the base of the plant rather than over head. Adequate spacing between clusters of lilies also promotes good air circulation and may help prevent disease.
Deadhead flowers as they fade, by breaking them off carefully. That way, none of the plant's energy is “wasted” on seed production. Do not remove stems or foliage, though. They'll continue to put energy into the bulb as long as they remain green. Remove old foliage in late fall or early spring by cutting down the dead stalks. Lilies need well-drained soil in an area that receives sun or part shade. Lilies, like clematises, prefer their flowers and leaves in the sun while their roots prefer shade. They need to be kept moist. Lilies can be planted either in the fall or spring, whenever the bulbs are available.
Handle the bulbs carefully because the scales can be easily broken off. Space them 6 to 10 inches apart. Plant lilies with 4 to 6 inches of soil covering the bulb. This allows them to form roots along their stems. Tall lilies should be staked and protected from high winds. Mulch well to keep lily roots cool. Remove blooms when they die to prevent seedpod formation. Cut stems off at ground level after they turn brown, but never cut them down while the leaves are still green.
Dividing Bulbs
Lily bulbs do not need to be divided every year. Generally, every two to three years is sufficient. If you notice that your garden is overcrowded and the lilies are blooming less than they were in previous years, then it's time to divide your bulbs. They are all using a limited amount of nutrients and water in a limited amount of space and need more room to thrive.
They are best divided in the fall, just after the foliage has turned yellowish-brown. This way, the plant has had a sufficient amount of time to absorb lots of sunlight and convert it to sugar (plant food) through the process of photosynthesis before you cut off the foliage and dig up the bulbs for division. You can also divide your bulbs during other times of the year--early spring is the second best time of year--however, your bulbs may experience stress, especially if you divide the bulbs in the middle of their growing season. Divide lily bulbs with your hands by pulling off attached bulbs. Do not use a knife. Throw out any bulbs that are rotted or damaged.
After you have dug up your bulbs and divided them, it is essential that you replant them within a few days. Plant lily bulbs about 4 to 8 inches deep with the tips facing up. Space multiple plants 10 to 12 inches apart.
More information can be found on the web:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/dg1112.html
http://franklincountymgs.blogspot.com/2011/06/liliums-true-lilies.html